New Era Cap Company, a name synonymous with quality headwear and cultural significance, has shaped the world of fashion and sports for over a century. From its modest origins in Buffalo, New York, to becoming the official on-field cap provider for Major League Baseball (MLB), New Era has transformed the baseball cap from a functional piece of sportswear into a global fashion staple. This article traces the remarkable journey of New Era hats, exploring key milestones, iconic designs, and their lasting impact on sports and popular culture.
The Founding Years: A Family Business Takes Root
The story of New Era begins in 1920 when German immigrant Ehrhardt Koch, a skilled craftsman, founded the E. Koch Cap Company in Buffalo, New York. With a $5,000 loan from his sister Rose (equivalent to roughly $78,000 in 2024), Koch started the business with 14 employees, including his sister and a colleague from his previous employer, Miller Brothers Cap Company. Operating out of a rented space on Genesee Street, the company produced 60,000 Gatsby-style caps in its first year, catering to the popular men’s fashion of the era. These flat caps, often associated with newsboys and the working class, laid the foundation for New Era’s reputation for quality craftsmanship. In 1922, the company was renamed New Era Cap Company, marking the start of a legacy.
A Pivot to Baseball: The 1930s and 1940s
The 1930s brought significant changes as fashion trends shifted and professional baseball gained popularity in America. Ehrhardt’s son, Harold Koch, joined the family business in 1932 at age 17 and recognized the declining demand for Gatsby caps. With baseball emerging as the nation’s favorite pastime, Harold saw an opportunity to design caps specifically for the sport. In 1934, New Era produced its first professional baseball cap for the Cleveland Indians, marking its entry into the sports world. This move was a turning point, aligning the company with a growing cultural phenomenon.
During World War II, New Era faced challenges due to fabric shortages. The Koch family resourcefully sourced surplus materials from New York City’s garment district, dyeing them at home to match local team colors. By 1950, New Era had distinguished itself as the only independent cap manufacturer supplying MLB teams, including the Brooklyn Dodgers, Cincinnati Reds, Cleveland Indians, and Detroit Tigers. This exclusivity set the stage for the company’s dominance in sports headwear.
The Birth of the 59FIFTY: A Game-Changer in 1954
In 1954, Harold Koch revolutionized the baseball cap with the introduction of the 59FIFTY, often referred to as the “Brooklyn Style” cap. This fitted cap featured a structured six-panel crown, a flat visor with eight rows of stitching for durability, and a high-profile design that ensured team logos remained prominently displayed. Unlike earlier caps that contoured to the wearer’s head, the 59FIFTY’s stiffened crown maintained a consistent shape, making it a uniform and professional choice for MLB teams. The name “59FIFTY” is believed to derive from its catalog number, model number, or the roll of fabric used in its creation, though the exact origin remains unclear.
The 59FIFTY’s design was a blend of innovation and quality. Harold introduced fabric sweatbands (replacing less comfortable leather ones) and a sewing technique that eliminated visible seams, enhancing both aesthetics and comfort. By the 1960s, New Era was supplying caps to about half of the MLB’s 20 teams, and by 1974, 20 of the 24 teams wore New Era caps. The 59FIFTY became a symbol of authenticity, worn not only by players but also by military branches, the FBI, and even NASA astronauts during Apollo missions.
Cultural Breakthrough: The 1980s and 1990s
The 1980s marked the beginning of New Era’s transition from sports equipment to a cultural icon. The 59FIFTY gained mainstream attention when actor Tom Selleck wore a Detroit Tigers cap in the TV series Magnum P.I., sparking public interest. By the mid-1980s, New Era began selling replica caps to fans, capitalizing on the growing demand for authentic sports merchandise. In 1993, New Era secured an exclusive license to produce on-field caps for all MLB teams, solidifying its dominance in professional baseball.
The 1990s saw the 59FIFTY become a fashion statement, particularly within the hip-hop community. Artists like Jay-Z, Eazy-E, Dr. Dre, and the Beastie Boys embraced the cap, making it a symbol of urban culture and city pride. A pivotal moment came in 1996 when film director Spike Lee requested a custom red New York Yankees cap for the World Series. Despite initial resistance due to MLB’s strict color regulations, New Era and the league approved the design. Lee’s appearance in the bold red cap sparked a surge in custom orders, cementing the 59FIFTY’s place in streetwear and fashion. The trend of leaving the gold size sticker on the visor further distinguished the cap as a cultural artifact, a practice so popular that New Era noted it in their FAQ.
Expansion and Innovation: The 2000s and Beyond
Under the leadership of Chris Koch, who became CEO in 2001, New Era expanded its reach beyond baseball. In 2012, the company secured exclusive sideline rights for the National Football League (NFL), and in 2016, it became the official on-court cap provider for the National Basketball Association (NBA), making New Era the only brand with exclusive headwear rights for all three major U.S. sports leagues. The company also signed deals with the National Hockey League (NHL) in 2024 and other leagues like the Canadian Football League and Australia’s Big Bash League.
New Era diversified its product line, introducing styles like the adjustable 9FIFTY snapback, the stretch-fit 39THIRTY, and the relaxed 9TWENTY dad hat, catering to varied tastes and head shapes. In 2007, the 59FIFTY underwent a significant update, switching from wool to polyester for better moisture-wicking and UV protection, enhancing performance for athletes. The addition of the New Era flag logo on the left side of the cap in 2016 marked another milestone, with the logo first appearing on-field during a Toronto Blue Jays postseason game.
The company also embraced sustainability with its “Green Collection,” using recycled materials to reduce environmental impact. New Era’s global presence grew with offices in Europe, Japan, and Australia, and partnerships with brands like Marvel Comics, DC Shoes, and designers like Jerry Lorenzo and Tyler, the Creator, further bridging sports and fashion.
Challenges and Controversies
New Era’s journey has not been without challenges. In 2007, the company faced backlash when three New York Yankees cap designs were linked to gang-related imagery, prompting their voluntary removal from shelves. The incident highlighted the cap’s cultural significance and the need for careful design considerations. Additionally, the closure of New Era’s Derby, New York plant in 2018, which produced up to 4 million caps annually, stirred controversy as production shifted to overseas factories in China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Haiti. While the Miami-Dade, Florida plant continues to produce MLB on-field caps (per league requirements), the majority of New Era’s 65 million annual caps are now made abroad, raising concerns about quality consistency and labor practices.
A Lasting Legacy
As of 2025, New Era remains a family-owned business headquartered in Buffalo, employing over 1,300 people worldwide and generating approximately $1 billion in annual revenue. With over 500 licenses, including teams from the MLB, NFL, NBA, NHL, and various international leagues, New Era produces more than 35 million caps annually. The 59FIFTY, now available in both high-profile and low-profile versions, remains the brand’s flagship product, celebrated for its craftsmanship and cultural resonance.
New Era hats have transcended their sports origins to become a global symbol of individuality, team pride, and style. From the baseball diamond to music videos, fashion runways, and streetwear, the brand’s influence is undeniable. Whether it’s a classic New York Yankees fitted cap or a custom collaboration, New Era continues to shape headwear culture, proving that a simple cap can be much more than just a hat—it’s a piece of history.
